We reviewed and tested the UCO Stormproof Matches. We tested for burn time, wind resistance, and waterproofedness. Check out the video below:
We reviewed and tested the UCO Stormproof Matches. We tested for burn time, wind resistance, and waterproofedness. Check out the video below:
We were at a local outdoors store and saw this ParaTinder. We were naturally intrigued since we like to carry as little gear as possible when back pack camping. Paracord and fire starting in one item? That’s what we’re talking about. We’re always up for testing new gear, so we picked up a pack.
Normally, this is where we tell you what’s inside the box when you purchase a product. Since this product is basically zip-tied to a cardboard card, we will talk about the make-up of the product. The cord itself is just a little thicker and more rigid than regular para cord (this is because of the tinder core). The nylon sheath of the ParaTinder is similar to regular para cord with the same 7 internal strands that para cord contains. These inner strands can be used for sewing, dental floss, fishing line, etc. The red inner tinder core is a waxy twisted type of flammable material.
Our standard fire starting kit consists of flint & steel with some cotton balls in an Altoids tin. We decided to try lighting the ParaTinder with flint & steel as well as with a lighter. We typically use flint & steel because 1. you don’t have to worry about running out of fuel, & 2. it’s cooler! The UST website shows lighting the ParaTinder with a spark, so naturally, we had to try. The inner core is the flammable part so it needs to be separated from the rest of the cord to be used as tinder. We have read from other sources that you have to strip the waxy material from the strands to light. The UST website shows spark being applied to the core as if removed directly from the para cord. We tried both ways.
First way we tried was with the strands of the ParaTinder core separated and scraped of the waxy coating. We cut about 10″ from the core piece and separated all the strands and balled them up loosely. If a spark is going to work, our thoughts are that this method with more surface area will definitely help. We used the same UST StrikeForce they show on their website and recommend. We threw a whole bunch of really good sparks at the strands and they just didn’t light. There were a few embers, but the sparks just weren’t hot enough to light the strands.
Next, we took the other 10″ of the ParaTinder core and, without separating the strands, balled it up loosely. Again, we threw a bunch of sparks at the core and it didn’t light. This time, there weren’t even an embers as if it were thinking about lighting. Nothing.
Lastly, just to make sure it would light, we used our lighter on one of the ends and it lit just fine. The core burned pretty well. You could easily add some small kindling and have the start of a good fire.
The UST ParaTinder burns well. It doesn’t light as well with a spark as it does with a lighter; but once it is burning, a decent fire could be made. Besides the tinder core, the 7 strands inside can always come in handy. We can see keeping this product in my pack for securing items in camp, a clothesline, or any other use for para cord you can think of. Knowing that if need be, we can separate the core and use it as tinder, is comforting as well. Keeping this in our pack out of the weather also ensures that we will have dry tinder at all times.
If you wish to purchase your own ParaTinder, you can get it here.
Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links, meaning, at no extra cost to you, we will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Here’s the video review we did for the ParaTinder:
The good people at Qwick Wick sent us a box of fire starters to product test. They boast being able to start your campfire, wood stove, or fireplace without the need for kindling or newspaper. Reportedly, the starters will burn for 30 minutes with an 8-10″ flame. The Qwick Wick website features a video showing them boiling 8 cups of water in under 20 minutes with just one fire starter. Naturally, we wanted to test these claims.
The box we so generously received contained 50 fire starters. They sell a 4-pack and 24-pack as well. These fire starters are little paper cups filled with wood chips that are soaked in soy wax with a red wick sticking out of it. Individually, the fire starters are about 2-1/2″ in diameter and 1-1/2″ tall. They weigh on average 2.5 ounces with a slight beeswax smell. If you are planning to carry these in your pack, we suggest putting them in a plastic bag to keep the rest of your gear from having a slight beeswax smell.
Our main source of heat during the winter time is our wood stove here at Camp Gear Center world headquarters. Typically, we use either newspaper or old copier papers with kindling to get the fire started. Naturally, we wanted to test out how well the Qwick Wick would light the wood stove. We placed thew Qwick Wick in the middle of our wood stove and put some (not too small) split fuel above it and lit the wick with our fireplace lighter. We didn’t want to put the kindling too low since we were testing the flame height and it’s ability to light the fire (and we didn’t need kindling!). The fuel was about 8″ above the flame at an angle. Once we lit the wick, it didn’t take long for the rest of the unit to catch fire. Before we knew it, the flame was touching the side of the fuel igniting it. Next thing we noticed was that the wood was on fire and we were ready to add fuel. The Qwick Wick continued to burn adding extra help to the fuel that we added. Next thing we knew, we had a nice fire going & warm room!
On the Qwick Wick website, they have a pretty cool video of boiling 8 cups of water in under 20 minutes. Naturally, we wanted to test this claim as well. The Qwick Wick boil test used a pot sitting on 2 logs with the Qwick Wick in between. We believe that the logs catching fire contributed to the time to boil the water so we decided to try the Qwick Wick in between a couple bricks to let the fire starter do ALL the work. While we didn’t get a sub 20 minute boil, it took about 30 minutes to boil 8 cups of water. Not a bad heat output for this little fire starter, but if you really need to boil water, use one of these to start a fire and go for it. It is important to note that the Qwick Wick did deposit a fair amount of soot on the bottom of our pot that we used so a thin layer of dish soap will help with cleaning the pot. Apply the dish soap before putting on the fire.
One would normally light the Qwick Wick much like you would a candle. Grab a lighter and light the wick just like you would a candle at home. Since we’ve never really been accused of “normal”, we wanted to try a couple different methods. We already know the lighter works (see wood stove above), so we tried to use a flint & steel and magnifying glass. The flint & steel will not directly light the Qwick Wick, however, if you surround the wick with a cotton ball and light that, ignition! The magnifying glass didn’t quite get the wick or wood shavings hot enough to light, but if you use the cotton ball trick, it will also light no problem. As a side note, if you pull a Qwick Wick out of the box and there happens to be no wick (it could happen), you can simply light the side of the paper cup with no issues.
Here’s a video of lighting the Qwick Wick fire starter with a spark:
Lighting the Qwick Wick with a magnifying glass test:
These fire starters are awesome! They are lightweight, they start fires as promised, and they are easily transported. We certainly put them through the paces and were not disappointed.
Where can you get yours? Here
I have a bad knee, so I practice low impact exercise whenever I can. I am a Boy Scout leader, so I do my best to practice low impact camping every time I camp. Low impact camping has little to do with the impact on your body, but everything to do with the environment. In Boy Scouts, we call this Leave No Trace. Leave No Trace is more of an attitude than a set of rules for camping, hiking, or backpacking.
You might wonder how one group can make a difference, but over time small impacts can add up and cause a great amount of damage to the environment. What we will discuss here are the seven principles of Leave No Trace.
The Boy Scout motto is Be Prepared. Proper planning and preparation helps Scouts have an enjoyable adventure while minimizing damage to natural and cultural resources. You can follow this motto too! Another way to say this is having the right equipment. Bringing the right equipment can make or break an outing. Knowing the regulations of the area where you plan to visit can help you plan as well. Certain land managers have certain rules and it is important to know them before you head out. Check the weather reports for your destination and pack food to minimize the amount of trash to pack out.
This is quite simply put as “pack it in, pack it out”. Leaving trash has an impact on both the environment and other campers. Nobody likes to see a bunch of trash laying around so pack it out! If there is trash at or near your sit, grab it too! We always carry a few trash bags with us on our hikes and unfortunately, come back with the full.
Wastewater: After straining food particles, properly dispose of dishwater by dispersing at least 200 feet (about 80 to 100 strides for a youth) from springs, streams, and lakes.
Human waste: Cat holes should be dug 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water, trails, and campsites. Don’t try to burn your toilet paper; this can start forest fires.
Damage to land occurs when visitors trample vegetation or communities of organisms beyond recovery. The resulting barren areas develop into undesirable trails, campsites, and soil erosion. In high use areas, concentrate your activities where vegetation isn’t present. In remote areas, spread out and move your tent daily so as not to create permanent looking campsites. Avoid areas where impacts are just beginning to show. Try to camp or hike on durable surfaces such as rock, gravel, sand, compacted soil, dry grasses, or even snow.
Leaving what you find allows others to enjoy the outdoors and have the same sense of discovery as you did when you explored the area. Leave rocks, plants, animals, and archaeological artifacts as you found them. The old “look but don’t touch” comes to mind with artifacts. In some areas it may be illegal to move artifacts.
Minimize site alterations. Good campsites are found not made. Avoid building structures or digging trenches.
To some, camping without a campfire is plain wrong. If you MUST have a campfire, pick a campsite where a campfire ring has already been established. This minimizes the impact on the environment by creating another fire ring. Leave No Trace campfires are small. Use deadwood that can be easily broken by hand. Burn your fire down to ash and remove any trash that may be in the fire ring (whether it’s yours or not).
Remember, you are a visitor in their environment. Quick movements and loud noises are stressful to animals. Observe wildlife from afar, give them a wide berth, and don’t leave food out. Human food can harm or even kill wildlife. Keep the wildlife wild.
Thoughtful campers respect other visitors and the quality of their experience. Travel in small groups and let nature’s sounds prevail.Nobody like to be out camping to relax and unwind and have a huge party going on near them. Select campsites away from other campers to preserve their solitude. Respect private property and leave gates as found.
On our last campout, we decided to camp in a pre-camped in site with a fire ring and plenty of room for our troop. We Hauled our trash out and even brought back quite a bit of trash left by others.
I’m not saying you have to follow 100% of these principles 100% of the time; but if you are mindful of them, and follow them as best you can, there will be plenty of wilderness for ages to come.
One of the best things about camping is the campfire. Whether you’re using if for cooking, warmth, or just gathering around with friends; the campfire is the focal point to any campsite.
Perhaps the most important part of a campfire is choosing where to build the fire. If you are camping in an established campground, there are usually fire rings already in place. Some of them even have grates for cooking! If you’re camping out in the wilderness, look for a spot where there has already been a campfire; this will impact the environment the least (leave no trace). If this isn’t an option, look for a clearing without a lot of material close by that can catch fire. You also will want to clear around your fire pit as not to burn more than you intend. Make sure your spot is away from dead trees or overhanging branches that can catch fire. You will also want to make sure not to build a fire underneath a heavy canopy as it can trap the smoke.
Teepee fire: Best for sitting around and put out a lot of heat & light. Please note: teepee fires burn fast.
Swedish torch: put out a little heat and little light. Can set a pot right on top. Swedish torches use very little fuel.
Log Cabin fires: great for cooking on. The criss-cross pattern of the fuel will put out a steady amount of heat and burn longer than a Teepee fire.
Keyhole Firepit: The best of both the teepee and log cabin. You can build the teepee fire in the circle and rake the coals into the slot for cooking.
Lean-to: these fires are best for poor weather due to them being sheltered on one side.
Star fire: minimal fuel used and the slowest burner of all the fires. You have to stay on top of this one to make sure it keeps burning.
Once you’ve selected your site, and you know what type to build, you want to make sure the site is completely clear of debris. We like to clear about 6′ in all directions of the fire pit if possible. Once the site is clear, dig down a little bit in a circle (about the diameter of your desired fire), and surround with rocks or stones. This will help contain any coals from rolling out.
There are 3 ingredients you will need for your fire; tinder, kindling, & fuel. Tinder can be dry pine needles, paper, dry leaves, dryer lint or cotton balls. Kindling is typically twigs, sticks, & small branches no bigger than the diameter of your finger. The last ingredient is fuel. Fuel is your larger sticks & logs thicker than 3″. Once you have all your ingredients, place the tinder in a manner so that it makers a little cave and stack some kindling around it. Light your fire in the manner in which you prefer whether it be a match, lighter, flint & steel, or a glowing ember from a friction fire starter. The tinder will light and catch the kindling. start adding more and more kindling being careful not to smother the fire. Once you have the kindling going pretty well, start adding the fuel. You should now have a healthy camp fire.
This is the kit I carry with me for fire starting. It consists of a UST SparkForce fire starter, and some cotton balls. All of this fits nicely into an old mint tin. I use the cotton balls to start the tinder easier. Pull a cotton ball apart so it is fluffy and surround it with your tinder. Point the SparkForce into the cotton ball and place the striker on it (like you were going to scrape it). When you pull the metal match part back, you should get a spark and ignite the cotton ball. Now just start adding tinder then kindling and you have just made fire.
The most important part of your campfire is putting it out. Failing to put out your fire properly can lead to a forest or wildfire. Always have water nearby so when it is time to extinguish your fire you are ready. It is also a good idea have water on hand in case of an stray spark. Pour water on the fire being sure to put out all the flames and stir the “slurry”. Put your hand over the now extinguished fire to make sure it is cool. You can’t use too much ware for this. Better to be safe than sorry.
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We love camping. The smell of the fire, the sounds of nature, the lack of busyness; these are just a few of the reasons. As I look around at all my gear, it occurred to me that I might have a camping addiction. As far as addictions go, there could be worse ones. I have compiled a list of “symptoms”. How many of these do you have?
There have been many times where I went to grab a shirt and decided I couldn’t wear it because it was a “camping shirt”. This has also happened with shorts, jackets, hats, and shoes.
Am I camping with the family? Am I sharing a tent? Do I need more room for my gear? Is it going to be windy, cold, rainy? Will I be able to drive in pegs? I have a different tent for almost every one of these situations.
When I open my closet, I have a minimum of 6 different day packs. I’m pretty sure they multiply in there, but I can’t be certain. Due to my camping addiction, and changing tastes, day packs seem to add up.
When travel, I am ALWAYS on the lookout for a road that may take me out into the forest for a nice secluded camping spot. There are times when I’ve driven into the woods, scoped out a great spot and marked it on my smart phone map for a return trip.
Cooking over fire isn’t just for camping. We have cooked many a desert and meal in our dutch oven at home. We store it in our pop-up camper so we know to keep it handy so we can use it.
Our pop-up is always at the ready. In fact, all we need to grab to get out the door is food and clothes. Everything is always in the camper. Propane is full, dishes, silverware, towels, bedding, and everything else is always ready to go. Because of this, we can mobilize for a camping trip pretty quickly.
Back when we had a garage, 1/2 of it was taken up by our pop-up camper and the other half my wife’s car used. Of course the camper was stocked and piled up with other tents, chairs, and other outdoor gear; but this only left a small percentage of the garage for other uses.
Zero degree, 20 degree, summer bag, it doesn’t matter. You have these bags and more. You even have a liner for either a light bag or to make your cold weather bag better. When my daughter asks for a bag for a sleep over, I immediately ask “how warm is the room going to be?”. Gotta make sure to be warm enough.
You probably have the gear you need, but finding decent gear at a bargain? Heck yeah! I don’t know how many times I’ve visited a yard sale and asked “any camping gear?”. If the answer is no, I typically move on. If the answer is yes, awesome! Typically there are stories shared about why they’re selling, where they’ve camped… Good times.
or her birthday, your anniversary, valentines day, or just because. Because she loves you (and camping), she agrees. The picture above is from one of our Mother’s Day trips which was an awesome weekend. Due to my wife being awesome, this trip was actually her idea!
Did we leave any symptoms out? What symptoms do you exhibit that are not on this list? Since we admittedly have a camping addiction, we want to hear from others who do as well. The question becomes: “should I seek help?”. No way! Get outside & camp more!
The UST (Ultimate Survival Technologies) SparkForce is the fire starter that I carry in my fire starting kit. I have used many different fire starters and find this to be one of the best ones out there.
The fire starting kit I carry (& I have multiple) consists of the UST SparkForce & some cotton balls in an old mint tin. I find the tin to be the perfect size and holds everything I need to start about 6 campfires. If you use something other than cotton balls, you may be able to fit more into the tin.
The SparkForce is self contained. The cap contains the striker which means you don’t need to use your pocket knife. It is light. If you do any backpacking, weight is an issue; this won’t break your back! It is easy to find in your bag. If you don’t keep it in a tin, the bright orange color makes it easy to spot in your gear bag. It works. The Spark Force creates a spark hot enough to start a fire with a variety of tinder.
It is simple to use. 1. You simply open the case and hold the striker against the metal rod and apply pressure. 2. You pull back the metal rod releasing the sparks in a downward direction into your tinder.
You may need to do this a couple times if your tinder doesn’t ignite.
The SparkForce is a great addition to any camping kit. It is lightweight, economical, and works well. If you don’t have one of these yet, or are considering one, do it! You won’t regret the decision. You can get yours here.
Whether you’re new to camping, or a seasoned camper; there always seems to be terms we have either never heard or are not as familiar with. We at Camp Gear Center have out together a camping glossary to help with some of the terms associated with camping and backpacking. If you think of a term that we missed, please comment below and we can add it.
3-Season tent – A tent recommended for use in summer, spring and fall.
4-Season tent – A tent designed to handle any weather conditions, including harsh winter weather.
A-frame – An older-style tent featuring a mid-support that runs the length of the structure in the shape of an “A”.
Altimeter – An instrument that measures elevation by using barometric (air) pressure.
Back country – The isolated and uninhabited sections of national park, public land or forest.
Backpack stove – Small lightweight stove that is easy to carry in a backpack. Most use either white gas or isobutane/propane gas.
Backpacking – Traveling with all of your belongings, including tents and sleeping bags, carried in a backpack.
Baffle – Fabric panels sewn to the inner and outer shell of a sleeping bag. Baffles keep the insulation in place. Down bags must be baffled. Most synthetic bags feature quilted insulation.
Bank(ing) a fire – To build a wall around a fire (or where fire is to be) out of rocks or stones, or to build the fire next to a rock or dirt wall such that it blocks the wind.
Base plate – The see-through plate of an orienting compass onto which the compass housing is mounted.
Bear bag – In bear country, campers must take measures to safeguard their food and cooking utensils. Food items are placed in a strong, waterproof bag (the bear bag), tied to a rope and suspended out of reach.
Bear Lockers – Metal lockers provided by a campsite to keep bears and other wildlife from eating campers’ foods.
Bearing – The reading of your compass in the direction you’re heading.
Bivouac – A tent designed to accommodate only one person.
Bivy sack – A small one-man tent or bag of sleeping bag proportions often used for emergency shelter.
Boxing the Needle – The process of lining up a compass’s needle with magnetic north.
Breathable – refers to the porosity of fabrics. Breathable materials are not waterproof.
Bushwhacking – Off-trail travel through brush where no cleared path exists and hikers have to force their way through the branches.
Cache – A placement of food and/or supplies along or near a trail or route of travel for future use.
Canopy – The inner wall of a double-walled tent. The canopy is breathable; the outer wall, or fly, is waterproof.
Catenaly cut – the natural curve formed by a rope that’s tightly strung between two trees. A tent which has a catenary cut rigs tighter (less sidewall sag) than one without catenary cut. Catenary cut is a feature of the best tents.
Cardinal points –The four main points of direction on a compass–North/360 degrees; East/90 degrees; South/180 degrees; and West/270 degrees.
Chuck Box – A box or sack for camping cookware. Keep the chuck box separate from the rest of supplies to minimize cleanup.
Cirque (French, from the Latin word circus) – An amphitheater-like valley formed by glacial erosion.
Citronella candles – Popular and natural insect repellent that keeps away mosquitoes.
Cliff – A high, steep face of rock; a precipice.
Day pack – Small backpack that holds enough gear for a one-day outing.
Deadman – A log or rock buried in the ground to provide a solid point for anchoring a tent in ground that is too soft for stakes.
Declination – The difference in degrees between magnetic north (the direction the magnetic needle on a compass points) and true or geographic north (the direction maps are printed towards).
Deep-lugged sole – A boot sole featuring deep ridges and grooves for maximum traction.
DEET – diethyl-meta-toluamide, the active ingredient in most insect repellents.
Dehydration – Excessive loss of body fluid that could result in headaches, fainting and more severe symptoms.
Denier -(den-year)- A weight measurement used to refer to the fineness of a yarn or thread used in some backpacking and camping equipment. The lower the denier, the more thin the thread. The higher the denier the more durable the fabric will be.
Diamond stone – a type of man-made sharpening stone which contains powdered diamonds. Diamond stones are lubricated with water (not cutting oil). They remove metal much faster than traditional oil stones.
Differential cut – The inner shell of a sleeping bag is cut smaller than the outer shell, to produce a Thermos bottle effect. The merits of this construction are still being argued by equipment freaks everywhere.
Dining fly – An overhead tarp (fly) used for protection from rain. Usually erected just before mealtimes, hence the descriptive name.
Dome – A tent shape where the poles create a dome by curving over each other (see picture above).
Double-wall construction – A style of tent architecture utilizing two walls–an inner wall, or canopy, made of breathable nylon, and an outer waterproof wall or fly.
Down – The soft, fluffy under layer of waterfowl plumage used as insulation in some sleeping bags and coats.
Draft tube – The insulated flap that covers the length of a sleeping bag zipper. Without a great draft tube, cold air would be sucked in and warm air forced out every time you moved. A down-filled tube that runs the length of a sleeping bag zipper – prevents cold air from filtering through the zipper teeth.
Dropped-point knife – The favored style for hunting knives – the point is centered (similar to a spear-point) on the blade. Dropped-point knives are ideal for skinning game animals but are not the most suitable style for camp knives.
Dry bag – A bag used to keep contents dry when the top is folded correctly.
Duck – Two or three small rocks piled one on top of the other to be used as a trail marker.
Duluth pack – A voluminous envelope style (usually, canvas) pack popular with canoeists.
Dutch Oven – A heavy metal pot with a cover used around camps to bake and prepare other delicious meals. Usually made out of cast iron. There is an art to good Dutch Oven cooking and some spend their lives perfecting their tasty dishes. Often a complete meal can be prepared in one Dutch Oven.
DWR – Acronym for Durable Water-Repellent finish, a treatment found on outerwear that forces water to bead much as wax does for a car.
Embers – The best thing to cook on if using a wood fire. When the flames have died down and the part-burnt wood glows orange or white, it is the most efficient heat to cook on.
Encapsulation technology – A special durable water-repellent finish (DWR) that wraps around each fabric fiber, as opposed to going on like a continuous coat of paint. Provides excellent water-repellency, doesn’t compromise breathability, is abrasion-proof, adds tear strength, and makes garments feel soft and supple. Used in some down and Polarguard 3D-insulated clothes.
Ensolite – A soft rubber material that makes wonderfully light yet, for the most part, comfortable sleeping mats for use under sleeping bags while backpacking or camping. Originally developed by NASA to protect pressure from damage.It has virtually 100% memory and is waterproof.
Escarpment – The steep face frequently presented by the abrupt termination of stratified rocks.
EVA (ethyl-vinyl-acetate) – Strongest, most resilient, and most expensive of the closed-cell foams. EVA makes an excellent trail mattress.
External frame pack – A backpack supported by a rigid frame on the outside of the pack.
Face – The side of a cliff, escarpment, or other mostly vertical rock structure. The side of a geological structure, as in west facing slope.
Fanny pack – A small zippered nylon pack that’s attached to a waist-belt.
Ferrule – The metal sleeve that’s attached to the pole sections of fiberglass tent poles. Ferrules form a joint between pole sections.
Filling power (of down) – Same as “loft”. It’s the thickness of a sleeping bag lying flat and fluffed. Generally speaking, the greater the “loft” of a sleeping bag, the warmer it will be.
Flash Flood – A sudden flood of water resulting from a cloudburst.
Flat-fell seam – Overlapping construction; the seam goes through four layers of material.
Floating dial compass – The compass needle is part of the numbered compass dial, which rotates as a unit. This allows the instrument to be read in the same plane as the eye of the user.
Floor area – The amount of usable floor space in a tent, measured in square feet.
Foam pad – A sleeping mattress made of either open-cell or closed-cell foam.
Foot – The rounded end of a sleeping bag, also called a foot box.
Footprint – The shape and square footage of a tent floor.
Frame pack – a pack with an exterior aluminum or fiber framework.
Free-standing tent – A type of tent that doesn’t require ropes or stakes to keep the tent standing (see dome tent).
Frostbite – A medical condition caused by extreme cold that could eventually result in amputation if left untreated.
Frost liner – A detachable inner “roof’ for a tent that absorbs moisture which might condense, freeze, and drop on sleeping occupants. Frost liners are made from cotton or cotton polyester fabric and are needed only in below freezing conditions.
Fuel – 1. larger wood that keeps the fire going. 2. gas for a stove or engine.
Fuel bottle – Traditionally refers to “Sigg” aluminum bottles, which are used for the storage of gasoline and kerosene.
Gaiter – A water-repellent, internal sleeve that can be tightened around boot and lower leg to keep out snow.
Gators – Nylon anklets (usually with side zippers) used by skiers and mountaineers. Gators prevent snow from getting in your boot tops, and they add extra warmth.
Gauntlet – A glove extending beyond the wrist for added warmth and protection.
Geodesic dome – A dome-shaped tent with a strong faceted framework of tubular aluminum. Geodesic domes are the Cadillac of domes!
Gear loft – An overhead shelf in a tent. Keeps small gear overhead, providing more floor space for bags. Good place to keep a flash light or other small items.
Giardia – A bacteria that contaminates water in the backcountry and can cause severe stomach cramps and other symptoms. More properly known as giardiasis, an infection of the lower intestines caused by ingesting the amoebic cyst, Giardia lamblia, in untreated water.
Giardiasis – A waterborne disease carried by the protozoan “Giardia.” Giardia is commonly carried by beaver. Incubation time is one to two weeks. The pathogen is very hardy.
Girth – The inside space, as measured around the sleeper’s waist area. Mummy bags have the smallest girth, and rectangular have the largest.
Gray water – Wastewater that’s created from bathing, cooking, laundry and other activities.
Grommet – Little round metal sewn-in rings found on corners of so-called post & grommet type tents – usually 2 or more per pole point/corner, on better tent models. These make for durable, fast set-ups, and easier adjustments when temps change fabric and pole lengths. Also found on generic tarps, and some custom tent footprints. Grommets can sometimes be plastic as well.
Ground stakes or pegs- Anchors that hold a tent to the ground.
Gusseted tongue (bellows) – A leather piece attached to both sides of the upper on a hiking boot, designed to keep out water and dirt.
Guy lines – A length of cord used to secure or reinforce the walls and rain fly of a tent.
Guy-out loops (also known as guy-out rings, guy points, storm rings, storm ties) – Extra connection points on tent, for cord/line runs to additional stakes in event of wind gusts – basic tents usually require customer purchase separate line and stakes to make use of these rings, which is strongly suggested you employ in event of weather changes.
Guy point – One of several points outside a tent where a line (a guy line) can be attached and then secured to a stake or other anchor in order to increase a tent’s structural integrity.
Haft – The handle of an axe.
Hammock – A method of camping where a nylon “bed” is suspended between two trees. Makes for minimal environmental impact and a great night’s sleep.
Haversack – A bag or pouch used by hikers to carry food, usually carried at the side by a shoulder strap.
Head gasket – A piece sewn around the hood of a sleeping bag to keep in warm air.
Heat stroke – When your body temperatures rises significantly from being exposed to the sun.
Hike – A long walk usually for exercise or pleasure.
Hip belt – The main support device on a backpack. Large padded belt that buckles around the waist and is fully adjustable. (makes carrying the pack much more comfortable)
Hollow-ground (knife) – The edge is ground to a concave bevel which produces a thin, razor edge and a stiff spine.
Hood closure – The tie cord and fastener which secures the hood of a sleeping bag around the sleeper’s face.
Horn – A high pyramidal peak with steep sides formed by the intersecting walls of three or more cirques.
Housing – The rotating part of a compass that holds the damping fluid, the magnetic needle and has degrees engraved around its edge from 1 to 360.
Hypothermia – A potentially lethal physical state caused by lowering of the body’s core temperature, due to exposure to cold wet weather.
I-pole tent – A tent with a single vertical pole at each end.
Imu – A shallow pit used for cooking.
Inselberg – Prominent steep-sided residual hills and mountains rising abruptly from plains. The residuals are generally bare and rocky, large and small, isolated and in hill and mountain groups, and they are surrounded by lowland surfaces of erosion that are generally true plains, as distinguished from peneplains.
Internal frame pack – A backpack supported by stays on the inside. The stays give the pack shape and make it more comfortable to carry than a traditional soft pack.
Iron ranger – An “iron ranger” is a fee collection box used at campgrounds that do not have full time attendants. Upon entrance to the campground, you deposit your nightly fee(s) in an envelope with your name and site number and drop this in the collection box. At sometime during the day, a park ranger will make rounds of the campgrounds and collect the fees. You will often see these in National Park and National Forest campgrounds.
Kerf – A cut made by an ax, saw, etc.
Kindling – Small, thin, dead wood (1″ around or less) used to start a fire.
Knife-edge – A very narrow ridge crest. In spots, the crest of a knife-edge is too angular to walk on, and travel requires scrambling over and around pinnacles, along ledges on the side of the ridge, or even straddling the ridge.
Layering – Wearing several thin layers of clothes, one over the other. Layering is the most efficient clothing system for cold weather.
Lean-to – A two or three-sided shelter with an over-hanging roof and one open side.
Leave No Trace – A set of outdoor ethics promoting outdoor conservation.
Lensatic compass – A compass which features a built-in magnifying lens for ease of reading directions. See above
Lexan® – A material used in water bottles and other camping gear that is extremely durable and can withstand a wide range of temperatures.
Lock-back knife – A folding knife that has an integral lock which “locks” the blade in place when it is open. Some modern lock-backs are really “side-locks” or “front-locks.” Lock-back knives do not have pressure springs like ordinary jack-knives, so they can be opened easily with one hand while wearing mittens.
Loft – The height and thickness of insulation in a sleeping bag. The thickness of a sleeping bag that’s laying flat and fluffed. Generally speaking, the higher the loft, the warmer the bag.
Low-impact camping – An ethic that treats nature with respect by leaving as little trace as possible (see Leave No Trace).
Lumbar pad – A support on a backpack to comfort heavy loads on the lower back.
Lyme Disease – An infectious disease usually spread through ticks.
Magnetic north – The geographical region towards which all magnetic needles point. This point is approximately 1,300 miles south of true north.
Map index – a specially gridded small-scale map which lists “maps in print,” how and where to get them, and their cost. A map index is available free from the U.S. Geological Survey and the Canada Map Office. See text description.
Marquee – A large tent, often used as a dining or meeting tent.
Massif – A compact mountain group consisting of several summits.
Mesa – A tableland; a flat-topped mountain or other elevation bounded on at least one side by a steep cliff; a plateau terminating on one or more sides in a steep cliff. Seen in many areas of the southwest.
Millar-Mitts – fingerless gloves used by mountaineers for technical climbing. Millar-mitts are great for fishing, canoeing and general hiking.
Mocoa – a popular camp drink which consists of hot-chocolate mixed with coffee.
Modified dome – A dome tent that has been designed for specific elements, such as wind or snow.
Moleskin – brand name of soft-surfaced bandaging material used to protect blisters. The sticky side of Moleskin is placed over the unbroken blister; the cushioned surface absorbs the friction from socks and boot.
Monsoon – In the Southwest, a seasonal outbreak of localized severe thunderstorms that deposit large quantities of rain often resulting in flash floods, especially in canyon country where there are narrow slot canyons and little vegetation to help absorb the sudden rush of water.
Monument – A large pile of stones used to mark a trail or often found at the summit of a peak.
Mountain parka – A generic name for full zipper thigh-length parkas. Mountain parkas usually have lots of pockets. They’re traditionally constructed from 60/40 (60 percent nylon, 40 percent cotton) cloth, which is doubled for added warmth. The U.S. Army field jacket is a true mountain parka.
Mummy bag – A close fitting, shaped, hooded sleeping bag very efficient at conserving body heat.
Nalgene Bottle – A type of “plastic” bottle that holds up well under the harsh conditions of hiking and camping. Originally designed to store chemical reagents, the plastic resists taking on the smell of the liquid or ingredients it contains. A very popular type of water bottle, especially the wide-mouthed variety. They hold up for years.
No-see-um mesh – A tent mesh so fine that it keeps out the tiny biting bugs called no-see-ums.
Orienteering – Using a map and compass in the field to determine your route of travel.
Orienteering compass – A compass that has a built-in protractor which allows you to determine directions from a map without orienting the map to north. This is the most practical compass style for outdoor use.
Overlapping V-tube construction (sleeping bags) – A type of baffle construction in which down is secured into V-shaped tubes which overlap one another. Some very warm winter sleeping bags are built this way.
Pack basket – A basket pack that’s traditionally woven from splints of black ash. This original Indian made item is still going strong in the New England area and is available from L. L. Bean. Pack-baskets are ideal for berry picking, picnicking, canoe trips, and auto camping. They will protect all your breakables. Compared to fabric packs, they are quite inexpensive.
Packed size – The dimensions of a collapsed tent and its contents, in square inches.
Parka – A thigh-length shell garment with integral hood. Parkas may be lined or filled with down, polyester or other insulation for use in cold weather.
Pile – A luxuriously soft fabric made from polyester. Pile absorbs little water and it dries quickly if it gets wet. Pile has almost replaced wool as the material for cold weather camping.
Plateau – A relatively elevated area of comparatively flat land which is commonly limited on at least one side by an abrupt descent to lower land. Sometimes called a table or tableland.
Poison Oak/Ivy – A poisonous shrub or plant that causes itchiness and rash when touched. Poison ivy pictured above. Remember the phrase “leaves of three, let it be”.
PolarGuard® 3D – A hollow-fiber, highly durable, polyester insulation used in sleeping bags and clothing that has a high warmth-to-weight ratio.
Pole sleeves – Fabric tunnels on the outside of a tent into which the tent poles are inserted.
Poly-bottle – short for polyethylene bottle.
Poncho – A rectangular, hooded rain garment. Ponchos provide good ventilation and can be worn over a hiking pack. They do not supply reliable protection from rain, but are great for an emergency.
Pothole – A hole generally deeper than wide, worn into the solid rock at falls and strong rapids by sand, gravel, and stones being spun around by the force of the current. In desert country a pothole often collects water during rains and can contain a variety of small freshwater creatures. After rain they can be an important water source for the local wild animals. Care should be taken around potholes to not contaminate or unnecessarily waste the precious water.
Primaloft® – A microfibrous polyester insulation so close to down in terms of structure, warmth, and feel that it’s also known as patented sythetic down. Primaloft is lightweight, durable, very compressible, and unlike down, highly water repellent.
Primitive campground – A place to camp without amenities, including bathrooms, showers and electricity.
Prime (as in “priming” a gasoline or kerosene stove) – Some stoves are usually primed by filling an integral “spirit cup” with gasoline or alcohol, then setting the fuel aflame. Stoves can be “over-primed.” If too much gasoline is forced into the spirit-cup, the unit may ignite into a ball of uncontrollable flame.
Priming – Allowing fuel to collect in the burner of a white-gas stove before ignition.
Prismatic compass – A compass with a mirror designed to allow a user to see both distant objects being sighted and the compass face at the same time.
Private campground – An area to camp that’s owned by a business.
Puncheon – A log bridge built over fragile terrain that is wet.
Punkies – Also called no-see-ums; a tiny insect called a midge, which bites severely.
Purifier – A drinking water system that removes contaminates and eliminates viruses with a combination of specialized filters.
Quallofil® – A synthetic material developed by Dupont for use in sleeping bags and parkas. Each filament has four longitudinal holes which trap air and add warmth. Quallofil® is one of the best synthetic insulators.
Quick-release knot – A knot which can be removed by a simple pull of the tail. The most common quick-release knot is the “bow” used for tying your shoes.
Quilted or Quilt Construction – A stitching style that runs through the shell and lining of a sleeping bag or garment to keep insulation from shifting. Quilting is lighter and less expensive than it’s more complex cousin, baffle construction. It is also less efficient because the stitching compresses the loft out of the fabrics and allows cold to move freely through the compressed area around the needle holes.
Rain fly – A tent covering that aids in keeping a tent dry and windproof.
Rating – The degree Fahrenheit to which a sleeping bag is constructed to sleep comfortably. i.e. -30 degrees, 0 degrees, +15 degrees.
Reef – A sedimentary rock aggregate, large or small, composed of the remains of colonial-type organisms that lived near or below the surface of water bodies, mainly marine, and developed relatively large vertical dimensions as compared with the proportions of adjacent sedimentary rock. In canyon country a “reef” is simply a nautical term carried over into geology to describe a barrier, such as Waterpocket Fold in Capital Reef National Park in Utah.
Reflector oven – An aluminum sheet-metal oven which bakes by means of reflected heat. Reflector ovens are hard to keep clean and they are very cumbersome. They require open flame for baking and cannot be used on stoves or over charcoal. They are very efficient if you have a nice bright fire.
Ridge – A relatively narrow elevation which is prominent on account of the steep angle at which it rises. The narrow, elongated crest of a hill or mountain; an elongated hill; a range of hills or mountains.
Ridge-vent – The triangular window at the ridge of A-frame tents.
Ring & Pin – On tents, a very easy-to-use corner assembly design where long pins (1 to 3 inch steel or aluminum) with metal rings attaching are permanently sewn to the exterior corners of the structure, and the pins are then inserted into the hollow ends of the tent poles. Fast, goof-proof, inexpensive, widely used, and suited to most 2-3 season general rec tent models; the higher line post & grommet corner system is main alternative, found on most 3+ season mountain grade tents.
Rip-stop nylon – A lightweight nylon fabric that has heavier threads sewn in at approximate one-quarter-inch intervals. Rip-stop is less likely to tear than taffeta but it has less resistance to abrasion. Rip-stop nylon is commonly used for outwear garments, and is distinguished by a fine pattern of boxes (barely noticeable) that are designed to keep fabric from tearing. Rip-stop is very lightweight material. It is water and wind resistant.
Rock Glacier – A glacier-like tongue of angular rock waste usually heading in cirques or other steep-walled amphitheaters and in many cases grading into true glaciers.
Rucksack – A type of knapsack or backpack, usually made of canvas with two shoulder straps.
Saddle – A low point on a ridge or crest line, generally a divide between the heads of streams flowing in opposite direction.
Scarp – An escarpment, cliff, or steep slope of some extent along the margin of a plateau, mesa, terrace, or bench.
Scree – Loose rock, typically fist size or smaller that accumulates at the base of a rock wall.
Seam-sealer – A special glue, available at all camping shops, used to waterproof the stitching on tents and rain gear.
Seam Sealing – Coating, waterproof of the sewn seam areas on tents, backpacks, and other combined outdoor fabrics, to decrease water entry. Treatments range from inexpensive water-based dauber bottles, to heavier brush-on polyurethane coatings, to very heavy technical grade near-plastic fillers.
Seam tape – A waterproof tape applied over all seams on a tent or other equipment meant to be totally water repellent.
Self-inflating air mattress – A camping pad to go under your sleeping bag that has foam inside and a valve on one of the corners. When the valve is opened, air is allowed to enter and can be trapped inside by closing the valve. Very insulative and comfortable to sleep on. They come in all sorts of thicknesses and sizes.
Self-supporting tent – Theoretically, a tent which needs no staking. However, all self-supporting tents must be staked or they’ll blow away in wind.
Semi-mummy bag – A sleeping bag with a barrel-shape and no hood. A good choice for those who feel confined by the mummy shape but want lighter weight and more warmth than that supplied by standard rectangular sleeping bags.
Sewn-through construction (same as “quilt” construction) – A stitching style that runs through the shell and lining of a sleeping bag or garment to keep insulation from shifting. Quilting is lighter and less expensive than it’s more complex cousin, baffle construction. It is also less efficient because the stitching compresses the loft out of the fabrics and allows cold to move freely through the compressed area around the needle holes.
Shell – The outermost material in a sleeping bag or outdoor clothing, consisting of a fabric used to meet a particular demand such as abrasion resistance, water repellency or suppleness.
Shock cord – An elastic cord running through tent poles to separation or loss of the poles, and to expedite set-up.
Shock corded poles – This means that a bungee cord runs through each pole assembly. This keeps the pole together so you don’t have to hunt for pieces. As the poles sections slip together the cord holds them together so they can be handled as a single pole.
Side canyon – In decreasing order of size, local usage is: canyon, fork, gulch.
Sigg fuel bottle – Traditionally refers to aluminum bottles, which are used for the storage of gasoline and kerosene.
Single-walled tent – A lightweight, single-fabric construction tent that is chemically treated for insulation and waterproofness but which may not be very breathable.
Sixty-forty parka – A parka made from fabric which consists of 60 percent nylon and 40 percent cotton. The term “60/40” is now generic; it defines any mountain style parka, regardless of the fabric composition. Mountain parkas of water-repellent 60/40 cloth, polyester/cotton blends, or waterproof Gore-Tex are light-weight, windproof and “breathe-able”, making them an excellent choice for use as the outer shell of your layered clothing system. In a downpour, 60/40 and polyester/cotton mountain parkas can be augmented with a lightweight, loose – fitting poncho of plastic or coated nylon, which can be worn to protect your pack as well as your body. Gore-Tex mountain parkas need no additional rainproof layer.
Shell (garments) – Refers to unlined garments, or the interior or exterior wall of a sleeping bag.
Side-wall baffle – A baffle that is opposite the zipper on a sleeping bag; it keeps the down from shifting along the length of the bag.
Siwash – To live off the land with a bare minimum of essentials. Most modern campers do not siwash!
Slickrock – Generally a smooth, weathered sandstone surface that becomes slippery due to the presence of sand grains. These can be dangerous to walk across.
Slot canyon – A deep, narrow, steep-walled canyon, most often cut through sandstone, and often with water running along its bottom. Sometimes referred to as narrows.
Smores – Simply a great camping treat to make for kids, big and small, around a campfire at night
Sou’wester – The traditional rain hat of sailors and commercial fishermen. The sou’wester was developed centuries ago and it is still the best of all foul weather hats. The best sou’westers have ear flaps, chin strap, and a flannel lining.
Space filler-cut – Where the inner and outer shells of a sleeping bag are cut the same size. This construction allows the inner liner and fill to better conform to the curves of your body than the Thermos bottle shape of the “differential cut.” The merits/demerits of space-filler versus differential cut are still being argued by sleeping bag manufacturers.
Space Blanket – Mylar-coated “blanket” used in survival kits. Space-blankets are waterproof and are very warm for their size and weight. Every camping shop has them. They are also called Mylar blanket, Aluminized blanket. The blanket measure 84″ X 54″ when spread open, they are the perfect for retaining warmth in any emergency. Easy to store with it’s compact design and light weight packaging. A must have item in your survival or emergency response kit. The blanket can serve different uses. It can deflect heat when used as a shelter from the sun. You can decrease heat inside your automobile by using the solar blanket to cover the roof and windows. Primary use is to reflect back your own body heat. It conserves 90% of body heat when wrapped around a person.
Sternum strap – A short nylon strap which connects the shoulder straps of a hiking pack. A properly adjusted sternum strap transfers some of the pack load to the chest.
Storm-flap – A panel of material which backs the zipper of a parka. This helps to keep the cold out and the warmth in.
Stuff sack – Traditionally, a nylon sack in which a sleeping bag is stored. The term now defines any nylon bag with drawstring closure.
Swiss Army knife – originally, the issue knife of the Swiss Army. Now, generic for any “Scout-style” multi-tool pocket knife.
Switchback – Climbing a mountain or hill with a zig-zag motion. This allows for a significantly easier ascent in many situations.
Table – A relatively elevated area of comparatively flat land which is commonly limited on at least one side by an abrupt descent to lower land. Also called a plateau.
Talus – The loose rock of all sizes that falls from a cliff and accumulates at the base. The distinction between scree and talus is generally that talus is large enough not to move underfoot.
Tank – Natural depressions in an impervious stratum, in which rain or snow water collects and is preserved the greater portion of the year. Also a natural or artificial pool or water hole in a wash. Seen often in the arid southwest.
Tarn – A small rock-rimmed lake in an ice-gouged basin on the floor of a cirque or in a glaciated valley.
Technical climbing – Mountain climbing requiring use of ropes and fixed belay anchors on either rock or ice. Also includes any sustained climbing where the arms are used to pull upward rather than being used solely for balance.
Tent – The main type of shelter for camping. Tents come in all shapes, sizes and sleeping capacities. Read more here.
Tent stake (or peg) – A piece of wood, metal or aluminum pointed at one end for driving into the ground to hold a rope supporting a tent. Why you need to stake your tent: for without the stakes your tent could quickly become a kite in the lightest of winds and destroy itself as it tumbles through the woods or across the sand dunes. Sometimes called tent pegs.
Tinder – small twigs, wood shavings, dry leaves or grass, dry needles, bark or dryer lint (ultra-fine dry material).
This should start to burn immediately with a lighted match or spark from your magnesium fire starter.
Topographic map – A map showing the topographic features of a land surface generally by means of contour lines.
Trenching (also called “ditching”) – Digging a trench around a tent to carry away ground water which accumulates during a heavy rain. This form of guttering is illegal in all wilderness areas. Ground cloths and tent floors have eliminated the need to “trench” tents. Trenching goes against the principles of Leave No Trace.
Trailhead – The point at which a trail begins. In most parks and popular areas there is a parking lot or turn out for easy access.
Traverse – Horizontal travel across a mountainside or over a ridge. An ascending or descending traverse refers to a gradual elevation change while traveling across a much steeper slope.
Tread – A trail’s surface. Refers to the amount of traction there is for hiking.
Trekking (“to make one’s way arduously”) – A very difficult or lengthy hike. Or perhaps over unmarked or totally undeveloped terrain
Tumpline – A strap across the forehead and over the shoulders, used to carry loads on the back. Voyageurs carried hundreds of pounds of furs with only a tumpline. Today this feature is found only on traditional canvas duluth packs which are used for wilderness canoeing.
Twist-on-a-stick – Baking powder bread made by twisting dough on a stick and baking it over the fire.
Tunnel tent – A low profile tent that is long and rounded.
Ultralight tent – A tent designed for one or two people, weighing five pounds or less and designed to carry on or in a backpack.
UV degradation – A breaking down of material due to the sun’s harsh ultraviolet rays. UV degradation can be a potential problem with tent flies exposed to the sun for extended periods.
Vestibule – A covered area outside of or connected to a tent, usually created by an extended rain-fly or a special attachment. Vestibules provide a place to store gear out of the weather
Volume – The amount of space in a backpack measured in cubic inches.
Wachita stone – A medium-hard mineral oil stone used for sharpening knives.
Wash – The wash of a stream is the sandy, rocky, gravely, boulder-strewn part of a river bottom. In the southwest a wash is usually the dry bed of an intermittent stream often at the bottom of a canyon. Also called a dry wash.
Waterproof – Impervious to water. Covered or treated with a material (as a solution of rubber) to prevent permeation by water.
Water-resistant vs. Waterproof
A garment that is water-resistant is “treated with a finish that is resistant but not impervious to penetration by water,” while a garment that is waterproof is “covered or treated with a material to prevent permeation by water.”
Water-repellent – Treated with a finish that is resistant but not impervious to penetration by water.
Water pocket – A bowl in rock that has been formed by the erosional action of falling or running water. Often times a collection point for rain and run off water, and thus a potential source of drinking water for wild animals and humans.
White-gas – A distillate of petroleum, also called petroleum naptha, commonly used in backpacking stoves.
Wilderness – A tract or region uncultivated and uninhabited by human beings, essentially undisturbed by human activity, together with its naturally developed life community, generally an empty pathless area.
Wind shirt – Differs from a wind-parka in that the shirt is cut to waist length and does not have a hood. Wind pants are made of breathable fabric and are popular for winter camping.
White-print map – A provisional map that’s similar to a “blue-print.” White-prints are up-to-date maps which show the location of logging and mining roads and man made structures. These maps are designed for professional use; they are not listed in standard map indexes
Welcome to Camp Gear Center! This is where we will talk about everything camping; things we love, things we’d like to change, camp recipes, and some product reviews.
Because we love camping so much, we decided to dedicate our lives to finding the best products and information to share with you. While we are out enjoying nature, we are compiling ideas to share and testing new products to review for you.
Pull up a camp stool around the fire. Welcome to camp, we’re glad you’re here.